Robert Cassar and the Queen of Margreid
Focus on those individual ultra-centenarian vines that dot the Italian wine territories. An ampelographic heritage that seems capable of expressing unique organoleptic profiles, to the extent of becoming a new commercial category.
This monumental vineyard clings to an intricate trellis along the entire facade of Robert Cassar’s house in the square in Margreid, a few kilometers south of Termeno in South Tyrol. It is a plant that cannot go unnoticed, as it is listed and protected by the Province of Bolzano as a Natural Monument, and its historical significance is certified and even engraved on one of the stone supports that have always connected it to the wall of the house. There, it is written: “In October of the year 1601, this vine shoot from the ancient Feichter strain, owned by Clement Feichter, was planted through the farmer Domenig from Valentini, originally from the Val di Sole.”
The plaque also emphasizes how the old vine of Margreid, which has been producing its grapes for about a dozen generations and has been growing and developing for four centuries, is a true symbol representing the continuous renewal of life and fertility. Only recently has the genetic identity of this extraordinary vine been confirmed. It is, in fact, the Hoertroete, an extremely rare variety but still listed in the European register of grape varieties (www.euvitis.de).
While the plant is protected by the Province of Bolzano, it is the care of the custodian and owner, Robert Cassar, that has kept it in excellent condition until today. Unfortunately, since 1989, it has not been vinified but has often been given as a gift or consumed within the family. Now, Robert wants to relive the excitement of winemaking. The new wine, vintage 2022, is already confirming the positive sensations of the Gertrudis Magredum; the next step is to let time do its part to taste a wine that tells more than 400 years of history once again.
Josef Terleth and the old vine of Versoalen
When talking about living monuments, one cannot overlook the old vineyard of over 300 years located at Castel Katzenzungen in Tesimo – Prissiano. We find ourselves on one of the most charming panoramic terraces in South Tyrol, at an altitude of over 600 meters, surrounded by forests, chestnut groves, fruit orchards, as well as castles, ancient churches, and old farmhouses. Josef Terleth, a researcher from the Laimburg Experimental Center, narrates the history and secrets of this vineyard and its castle. “The castle was first mentioned around 1200. The Versoalen vineyard is right below the castle in an area that might seem unfavorable for grape cultivation, but the vines’ age of over 300 years, scientifically established in 2004, attests to the extraordinary connection with this region.”
The vineyard is protected as a natural monument by the Province of Bolzano, and it operates under a biodynamic farming regime. The harvest and winemaking are directly carried out by the Laimburg Winery, which also takes care of the wine’s commercialization. “I believe,” he continues, “that the longevity of this plant, whose pergola extends for over 300 square meters, is greatly influenced by the ancient adjacent wall. Over the years, additional plants of the same variety were planted around the mother plant, creating a small vineyard of great charm. This year, we harvested almost two quintals of Versoalen grapes. This variety, widely cultivated in the last century, has almost disappeared, leaving only a few historic vines. It produces a wine that deserves to break free from the isolation in which it has fortunately been preserved and become an oenological heritage for everyone.”
The two century-old twins in Pontedara in the district of Bovi.
The Pontedara grapevine is quite unique; it produces higher-quality wine compared to other varieties cultivated in Lessinia. However, it remains unknown in the international DNA registry.
What astonishes us is the size and age of these two splendid “wall vines” owned by Silvano and Pietro Bovi. It hasn’t always been smooth sailing for the vines in this area; the district sits at an altitude of 600 meters, and the owners tell us that in the 1970s and 1980s, cold and rain significantly affected the productivity of mountain varieties, posing serious survival risks. Now, the sun shines brightly, and the fruits are visible: lush vines and beautiful, ripe fruits, blessed by the warmth. In the second half of the 1800s, Cristiano received some cuttings from his father-in-law to plant and become self-sufficient, producing high-quality wine for himself and his neighbors. From the cutting planted around 1870-1880, a grapevine developed, and its wood was used to propagate vines in front of every house in the Bovi district. For about 140 years, this vine has provided wine to the family and neighbors. After Cristiano, his son Davide added another vine beside the family home’s entrance, where the two sister vineyards now proudly display their impressive structure. Over the years, both vines have grown in the scarce soil surrounded by rocks in which they were planted, and they have been preserved by the rock.
Davide’s children have continued to care for this grapevine, which they consider almost a family relic, a symbol of time transcending generations. All of them passionately gather in the shade of the vines planted by their great-grandfather Cristiano, silent witnesses to the enduring agricultural tradition.
Vittorio Falamischia and the walled and resurrected Dorona.
Dorona is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive grape varieties of the Veneto region, so much so that its full and correct name is “Dorona di Venezia” (Dorona of Venice). However, to speak with expertise and awareness about this variety, one must be highly knowledgeable and even a bit brave. It is a grape variety that, like Venice itself, is more famous than truly understood. Curiosity, interest, and sometimes luck could not keep us away from this grape, which, especially in recent years, has become an iconic variety in the rich ampelographic landscape of the Veneto. Information about Dorona can be easily found online or in classical literature, but that should only encourage us to pay greater and more determined attention to it.
The official register of the Ministry reports that, under different names, Dorona was already cultivated in various parts of the Veneto in the 1800s. Venice, Padua, Vicenza, and Verona are the original areas of this variety, which in its historical path has often been confused and assimilated with others. The same happened to us when we encountered the large vine walled in Vittorio Falamischia’s home: “The vine is 130 years old because it was planted by my wife’s great-grandmother upon her return from America, where she emigrated with her family around 1870. My father-in-law used to make wine from this vine all year round, but it was also used as a table grape. In 1986, we decided to expand the house in the direction of the porch where the vine was located. We didn’t have the heart to uproot it, so we walled it, allowing the canopy to grow out from the first floor, with regular production and large clusters. However, we didn’t know what variety it was.” Only a subsequent DNA analysis allowed them to determine that the “walled vine” is Dorona. The 2022 harvest produced approximately 35 liters of wine, which is showing great promise.
The Archaeo-Vineyard of Marino and Dario Anselmi
In the Veronese wine landscape, it is undoubtedly a unique site, both for its positioning at over 700 meters above sea level and for the richness of its vine biodiversity. We are talking about approximately 5,000 square meters of vineyard with a slope reaching 35%, cultivated in the traditional pergola trentina system. The soils are limestone, and the vineyard is undoubtedly over 100 years old, with many of the vines being ungrafted, and the most prevalent variety is a grape locally known as Saccola, but DNA analysis has revealed it to be Pavana.
What characterizes this iconic site are some centenary plants leaning against the walls of houses, stables, and barns. Some of these ancient vines have only revealed their obscure identity through DNA analysis. They are Gouais Blanc, or Liseichi, a variety forgotten from a cultural perspective but one that played a crucial genetic role in the development of the Central European grape assortment. In fact, it is the parent of around eighty currently cultivated grape varieties, including some well-known international ones, such as Chardonnay and Gamay when crossed with Pinot. It is, therefore, a very ancient variety with well-defined cha
