A journey to discover the whites of Sannio, from the sparkling and still Falanghina to the Agostinella passito
It is a wild territory, the one that extends behind Benevento and welcomes an archaic and intact world, of strong character and great scenic beauty, where the vineyards are the masters, which with their colors outline the boundaries of a land of illustrious history and ancient legends, of faith and battles. The Sannio has remained a patient frontier place, where the journey, even if short, still has its sense of adventure and discovery. There is nothing to be taken for granted in the valleys, now a symbol of the pantry of wines from the entire region, which radiate out around the provincial capuologist. A land from which wines of great character originate, but also of an elegance that, perhaps, you do not expect, especially in the whites, an authentic recovery of the viticultural identity of the territory, in spite of the Barbera del Sannio, which has given so much to many Italian wines.
In fact, the Sannio Benevento finds its cardinal point in Falanghina, a white grape variety. The vine probably derives from ancient Greek Balkan strains and seems to owe its name to its expanded bearing, for which traditionally it was tied to support poles called “phalanx”, hence Falanghina, or “screw supported by poles”. Almost abandoned over the centuries, it has been revalued and is often raised on a straight foot. Although cultivated mainly in hilly areas and characterized by a hot and very dry climate, Falanghina still has different facets, which change according to the terroir and the different vinification processes.
The sensory journey to discover the whites of Sannio Benevento aims to discover the different peculiarities of Falanghina and other indigenous people of Sannio Benevento, such as Agostinella.
It starts with a Falanghina-based bubble: “Cinquantenario Janare”, classic method sparkling wine from the ” La Guardiense ” winery, 100% Falanghina, characterized by a bright straw yellow color, with a fruity aroma of good intensity with hints of cedar, citrus, white fruit and yeast. Pleasant, with good structure and excellent persistence, excellent as an aperitif and in combination with fish-based appetizers, vegetables and cheeses, as well as with fish and vegetable-based pasta and risotto. It is no coincidence that “Cinquantenario Janare” has collected awards in Italy and abroad.
A pleasant discovery is also represented by another sparkling wine: “Nove Lune”, also classic method, obtained however from Agostinella, a native vine that has almost disappeared, rediscovered by the A Canc’llera winery, whose name derives from the notoriety conferred by the area of transit of the tratturo that connected Campania and Molise, during the transhumance. The vinification of this ancient native is a bet, which was used to fade the intense color of Barbera del Sannio. In the glass you can feel the aromas of freshly baked bread crust, the result of 40 months of aging on the yeasts, the perlage is persistent and the combination of acid and fruity notes is very balanced in the mouth. Excellent pairing with starters and fish first courses.
From the bubbles we move on to the stills, with the Falanghina “Casco dell’Eremo” by Cantina del Taburno , in which the fermentation in steel is felt all, starting from the intense straw yellow color. Fruity hints prevail on the nose, reminiscent of pineapple and ripe pear. It is soft to the taste and with a high aromatic persistence.
The journey continues to discover Cantine Tora ‘s “Kisòs”, a Falanghina obtained in the best vintages, from a selection of hand-picked grapes, vinified with a very slow fermentation that enhances the true taste of this ancient vine. At sight it has a bright yellow color, complex nose, characterized by hints of ripe exotic fruit, mango, papaya, passion flower and acacia. Full to the taste, warm, soft, with excellent persistence.
We then arrive at the aromas of fruit and wood that characterize the Falanghina “Fontanavecchia” by Libero Rillo . You can feel the influence of the clayey soil and the cold maceration on the skins for 8 hours, with a double passage in barrique. Aromas of wood and a remarkable olfactory persistence, which make it suitable for different dishes: from fish to more mature cheeses.
The journey to discover the whites of Sannio ends with a passito di Agostinella, a discovery for the sense of smell as well as for the palate, with intense floral notes, excellent with desserts and blue cheeses.
