Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a magnificent vine, as much appreciated in ancient times as it is underestimated in contemporary times, even if in recent years it is finally getting the right recognition of its value.
Origins and diffusion
In Abruzzo the origins of the Montepulciano vine date back to more than two thousand years ago, and there have been many positive appreciations that, between history and legend, have reached us. How can we forget Hannibal who for years seems to have held his breath on the neck of the Romans, keeping the morale of his men high with Abruzzo wine or those of the poet Ovid who in “The Metamorphosis” made references to the fertility of the Abruzzo soil due to the presence of excellent grapes, in addition to the fact that the result was a wine so good that it had to be duly assigned to the Roman emperors.
The exact area from which this vine originated is to be considered the Peligna valley , in the Maiella area, where it still seems to grow in optimal pedoclimatic conditions compared to any other.
In 2003 the DOCG mention was granted to the sub-area “Colline Teramane” and in 2019 the DOCG “Tullum” in the province of Chieti.
In the last few years, precisely in 2013, he was involved in the legal dispute between Abruzzo and Tuscan winemakers, precisely on the name “Montepulciano”, which was resolved in 2018 with a ruling that established that the Abruzzese could continue to call it that because the reference concerned the type of grape, unlike the Sienese who instead referred to the Tuscan municipality of the same name.
It is considered a high-altitude vine, a mountain vine , late in ripening, so much so that the harvest takes place between the first and second ten days of October and it is not even sure that by that date the grapes have reached the right phenolic maturity.
Characteristics of the vine
The result is wines with a beautiful ruby red color with reflections ranging from purple to garnet, sometimes even orange, depending on the evolutionary state.
They generally have a good alcohol content and an interesting performing softness and, especially in their youth, enjoy a freshness and a beautiful mineral nuance that guarantee them a good longevity. In fact, heat and acidity, if well dosed, are the foundations that allow it to age superbly.
The result is a clean, pulpy, fresh, mineral taste, and with very present tannins but never sharp or intrusive with hints of dried rose, jasmine, ripe blackberry, plum, sour cherries, cherries, black cherry, morello cherry, wild berries, and aromatic herbs , undergrowth, and if the maturation involves passages in wooden barrels, you can meet sweet spices, licorice, cocoa, tobacco, chocolate in a delicately almond context. The finish is often savory, mineral, with hints of black cherry.
Terms of Service
It is a vine that generates wines that need time to “open” and show every nuance of their character, so it is always advisable to open the bottle a little before serving and use a nice large glass.
The serving temperature of Montepulciano rosso should be around 16 to 20 degrees depending on the evolution of the wine, and it is appropriate to combine it with well-structured and tasty dishes that know how to keep the comparison: rich and tasty first courses, roasted or grilled of meat as well as fragrant aged cheeses.
The Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
With this vine, thanks to a short maceration of the grapes, it is possible to obtain an extraordinary Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a very good and elegant rosé that has similar characteristics, but less vigorous than its older brother.
An intense and crystalline cherry pink with organoleptic characteristics that give particular satisfaction; the color is most of the time intense and lively and to the nose and to the taste it is particularly generous with flowers, fruit and spices: geranium, carnation, cherry, raspberry, pomegranate and with extraordinarily balanced freshness and softness.
It should be tasted fresh, at a maximum of 8-10 degrees, and like all rosé wines, it satisfies many indecisive palates and can be combined with an incredible variety of foods.
A great grape variety born in a region that from a morphological and vitivinicultural point of view can only be envied, even if the disciplinary provides for an overall area that is a little too wide for Montepulciano, which in the future cannot fail to provide for a distinction at least of the four provinces of Abruzzo given the evident differences of this vine in the different areas.
Conclusions
However, I believe that it will have an interesting future, with variations in the specification that can soon enhance it; For some time now there has also been talk of a “superior” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, even if the times of bureaucracy are biblical, but for us enthusiasts we just have to be confident and wait.
