When we talk about “heroic” viticulture we can’t talk about Liguria and the wonderful Cinque Terre appellation, but when we talk about Cinque Terre we have to talk about its native white grape varieties that produce color Vibrant white wines with a distinct minerality and marine element, suggesting that in this region, soil, rock and sea once coexisted at the same time.
In fact, the Gulf of Liguria, near the Cinque Terre, makes the province of La Spezia one of the most representative regions of extreme viticulture in the world, due to its small, not too extensive and unique structure, the coast is composed of The rocky terrain overlooks the sea and is suspended on the crystal clear water all year round.
The vineyards of the Cinque Terre are mostly planted on terraces: a unique “ladder” configuration that allows producers to work between the rows, even in very narrow and very inaccessible spaces. In fact, the work was largely on hills and mountainous rock walls, reclaiming to create flat steps that descended straight down to the waves.
These areas are so fascinating and inaccessible that they are often cultivated and made possible using animals such as mules, donkeys and horses rather than machinery.
At the geographical level, the Cinque Terre has only two DOC ratings, named DOC Cinque Terre and DOC Cinque Terre Sciacchetra, and divides its coastline from north to south into three precise sub-regions, called Costa de Campo, Costa de Posa , Costa de Sera.
The main grape varieties grown in these areas are white grapes, and the two DOCs that make up the land are also mainly derived from these three grapes: Bosco, Vermentino and Albarola.
These three grape varieties are scattered around the Cinque Terre growing area, and they are almost always blended with each other, but nonetheless, they are also pure.
The Bosco vine has been listed in the Italian National Catalog of Grape Varieties since 1970, due to its very ancient origins. Its name seems to be derived from the lush woods of the Cinque Terre, an ancient symbol.
It is a very lush and prolific vine, very adaptable to the most extreme conditions, but prefers drier climates, such as this super airy setting on a rock overlooking the sea, which manages to give it maximum expression and resistance. Primarily trellised, this vine has a wide variety of leaf forms, in fact its leaf structure varies from medium to five-lobed to other shapes, and the clusters can range from very sparse to compact Conical or otherwise shaped, and with medium-sized grape berries, characterized by thick skins and bright colors.
These grapes can produce a wine that is not overly structured and loaded, in fact there seem to be no examples of pure wines from this vine, mostly blends with Vermentino and Albarola.
Before taking root in Liguria, Vermentino crossed the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian seas starting from Corsica around the 14th century before gradually spreading to nearby regions such as Tuscany and Sardinia. It is a semi-aromatic grape variety that has also been registered in the National Register of Grapes since 1970. Like Bosco, Vermentino has a very diverse range of leaf structures, as well as cluster shapes. Grapes vary in size, medium thickness with mottled skins and rich colours. It has moderate oenological vigor and high, regular productivity.
Albarola is also a grape variety that, besides being native to the Cinque Terre, is also the protagonist of some wines from surrounding areas, notably in Colli di Luni and neighboring areas in Tuscany. In the past it was called Calcatella, a name derived from the characteristic of the grape bunches, which are compact in shape, formed by very small grapes, which in turn form small cylindrical clusters. Also on the epidermis, its uveal layer is particularly thin, and it actually has a lot of humidity and is prone to mildew, but it exists in strong winds, which is why it can adapt to the climate of the east coast immediately. The strong winds of the bay make it special. It is mainly grown with other grapes such as Bosco and Vermentino, and also has a fair amount of leaf shape. The wines made from Albarola are very tasty and uncomplicated.
All three of these grape varieties impart intense flavors to the wines that blend beautifully with the rocky soil, set against the sea.
In addition, the blending of these three local grape varieties produces the very famous Sciacchetrà passito, a raisin liqueur, and the DOC wine, DOC Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà, which is only allowed in the region. produced in the province of La Spezia. The proportion of Bosco grapes is usually around 60%.
Its name is derived from the verb “sciacàa”, meaning to crush, reminiscent of the technique used to press grapes.
The first who mention this intoxicating liqueur was probably the painter Telemaco Signorini of the Macchiaiolo group, who recalled summers spent in the Cinque Terre, writing: ” In September, after the harvest, the best grapes are sown in the sun to obtain the Chaquetra wine”.
Hand-picked grapes are dried on a cool shelf and ventilated for at least two months, then pressed and separated from the skins, from which 30%-35% wine extract can be obtained, the purpose is to obtain sweetness, alcohol can even be high up to 17°. This is really good wine.
But it doesn’t end there, because in addition to these two DOC-rated wines, hidden in the history of viticulture and enology in the region, there are other very old native grape varieties, some of which are completely unknown. I would like to introduce my friend and brilliant colleague from Liguria, Sergio Garreffa, himself Best Sommelier of Liguria 2011 and Vermentino 2016 Winner of Best Sommelier.
(PARTE BOX OSPITE) The following are the rewards for the guests:
Several minor indigenous white grape varieties are added to the “traditional” white grape varieties of Cinque Terre, Italy. They are: Bruciapagliaio (Brusapajià), Fratepelato (Frapelao), Gambo Rosso (Gambu Russu), and Cappell, a grape variety that is now extinct but reappeared in these regions not long ago.
Picabon (Piccabun), a grape grown and used in blends by the Cheo di Vernazza company, is called “Therefore”, and there is also a white grape variety called Rossese Bianco (Ruzzese), which is widely found in Cinque Terre and Levante Regions such as , Levanto and the Gulf of Framura have been around for thousands of years but are almost unknown.
Pope Paul III Farnese brought this nectar to Rome, and the pope’s bottler, Sant Lancerio, wrote that the Pope “used to steep the dried figs in Ruzzese wine, which is what is now known as Charquette. La wine prototype.
Thanks to a collaborative project with the CNR of Turin, the vines were redeveloped and regenerated by the Cà Du Ferrà winery in Bonassola, still following the traditional requirements for the production of dry and natural raisin liqueurs.
