Writers：Giulio Somma, Fabio Ciarla
The future of sparkling wines is more and more linked with the past, with history. They spend years and years ageing and refining in the cellar before they are released. However, the market for “aged” sparkling wines is growing: more and more customers are now craving richer flavors and wines that have matured over a long period of time. These passionate drinkers are willing to splash out on unique experiences and explore different tastes and flavors.
As the demand for sparkling wine continues to grow, so are high quality sparkling wines gaining traction.
A market on the rise and able to give prestige to a category, sparkling wines, that seems far away from slowing down.
From ageing on lees and post-decanting stage, sparkling wines have always been popular for their freshness and zesty taste, and can be consumed straight away without further ageing. However, more and more consumers are seeking ‘mature’, ‘refined’, aged sparkling wines and this trend has been confirmed in markets around the world. In many countries and regions, the image of sparkling wine is undergoing a transformation. This is not just a passing trend, but a structural shift that is taking place, just like other wine types such as white and rosé. This shift is challenging a new market segment, creating a new product that differs from traditional sparkling wines in terms of structure, price and consumer target.
Although it is generally accepted in wine circles that sparkling wines made using the traditional method should be aged on their lees for the same or a similar period of time after de-stemming. For most consumers this rule no longer seems to apply to sparkling wines. In order not to lose their freshness and fizz, sparkling wines should be consumed within the first year or at most two years of release.
What does this mean?
The difference is not irrelevant and is not just a matter of personal taste: those who choose to open the bottle more quickly, do so because they are eager to taste a fresh, lively wine with complex aromas, but simply want to enjoy it in time. On the other hand, those who prefer to recork the cork and wait for years are more interested in experimenting with the flavors of the wine over time, they like to explore the mysteries of the wine and experience its maturity and elegance while they wait. It may seem like a stretch or a provocation, and to some extent it is, but these rare and sparkling wine drinkers are also wine lovers. Although the sparkling wines lose some of their internal pressure, they also become more vegetal and refined, with an almost meditative style. In good condition, these wines could well be classified as “good”. Although it may seem a stretch or even provocative, for those rare and expensive sparkling wines that have aged for 8 to 10 years, and those that have been kept for the same length of time in the cellars of top restaurants, conceptually they may no longer be “sparkling wines”, but “wines “.
For great white and red wines from around the world, the incredible prices at auction are based on many long vintages. In short, time is a necessary condition for measuring the value of a wine, and in a wider sense, of a land. A wine cannot be great if it has not been aged, which is an important factor when measuring the value of a wine. Sparkling wine have now a stronghold in a given market area and will keep this position for a long time.
Italy and its ‘vintage’ sparkling, a growing phenomenon.
We are used to drinking sparkling wines, seeking the freshness of the bubbles dissipating instantly in the glass. There is now a growing public demand for the enjoyment of aged bubbles and some producers have become aware of it. Sparkling wines made using the traditional method not only become true kings as they chant the passage of time in the glass, but also seal the past and present in the bottle and look to the future with optimism. Fine wine is becoming increasingly popular as a safe asset. According to Knight Frank’s annual report, an assessment of luxury collections shows that fine wine is getting the best luxury investment, up 16% in 2021 and 137% over the last decade. According to “the Global Fine Wine Report 2022”, a survey of nearly 1,000 respondents in the Italian wine market shows that the second country to watch in 2023, after France, is Italy, particularly the Piedmont and Tuscany regions.
Winemaker Mattia Vezzola’s view: sparkling wines made with the traditional method can ‘live’ past 40 years of age. The Italian sparkling wine market has been expanding steadily for many years, inextricably linked to the significant improvement in the quality of sparkling wines and the recognition by consumers of the reputation and commitment of established producers. Among the factors that favor the ageing of sparkling wines made by traditional method are, of course, a range of issues related to genetics, vineyard management, vineyard orientation, altitude and the entire production chain. Climate and land have a huge impact on a wine’s ability to age. While there are no magic tricks to alter the capacity of a vineyard, there may be techniques to minimize the abatement of acidity associated with longevity, such as manual picking, not only soft pressing but slow pressing, fractionation of the pulp, low temperature fermentation, etc. When combined with perfect protection, a traditional method made sparkling wine can endure 40 years of longevity.
According to wine expert Alberto Lupetti: “Only a few sparkling wines can achieve longevity”.
–As a Champagne expert, what can you tell us about ageing and the Italian sparkling wine tradition?
-The market seems to have gone crazy, with everyone suddenly wanting aged wines, causing prices to soar, which I think is senseless. What is even more incredible is that many people are ignoring the problem of preserving wine perfectly. What I said above was about Champagne, not traditional method Italian sparkling wine, which is a trend that has only recently started to emerge.
–Long-term lees ageing and bottle ageing after de-rubbing… are these two maturation techniques going to give us two completely different sparkling wines?
-Exactly. The first method is like a time machine, as it shows us a wine with incredible freshness, just as it was upon first release. The second, on the other hand, matures quietly and reveals increasingly complex aromas as it is polished over time, and is certainly more attractive. In this case, however, few wines have a long lasting life. The charm of post-dégorgement ageing offers a wonderful taste experience that even individual enthusiasts can indulge in, provided they have a well-kept cellar. For example, one could buy six bottles of his favorite vintage and then open them every 2 to 3 years…
–What are the rules for the lees ageing period and the resting period after dégorgement?
-Based on my personal tasting experience of over 20 years and according to French Champagne lovers, I think the following is sufficient: if the wine has been on its lees for more than 3 years, you need at least 8-12 months of rest; if the wine has been on its lees for 7-8 years, the rest period should be adjusted to 18-20 months; if the wine has been on its lees for more than 10 years, you need at least 2 years of rest period before consumption.
-What are the distinguishing characteristics of sparkling wines that have been aged for a long time, from an organoleptic and palate point of view?
-Obviously, we are talking about wines that underwent post-dégorgement… Over time, the aromas evolve in the third stage. Fresh fruit flavors gradually move closer to jam, citrus aromas evolve into candied sweetness, while pastry, dried fruits and roasted flavors emerge. And then, the wine’s flavors change, with the appearance of undergrowth and toffee flavors.
-How far can sparkling wines develop and mature by traditional method?
-This depends on a number of factors such as production area, the vintage and the type of winemaking, and there are no absolute rules. Not all sparkling wines made by non-traditional methods have ageing potential, but it is the character of the base wine that determines whether it is suitable for ageing. Never believe that a mediocre wine will get better after 30 years on its lees – it is impossible. Only wines made when the grapes are perfectly ripe have the potential to age. Generally speaking, long-term ageing is the privilege of a few grape varieties, so don’t let it become a fad.
“Aged” sparkling wine types, a list of the major Italian sparkling wine denominations:
Alto Adige or Alto Adige Doc, Franciacorta Docg, Gavi or Cortese Di Gavi Docg, Greco Di Tufo Docg, Lessini Durello or Durello Lessini Doc, Pomino Doc, Trento Doc, Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Doc, Vigneti Della Serenissima or Serenissima Doc. Being modified to: Fiano Di Avellino Doc, Monti Lessini Doc, Oltrepò Docg Metodo Classico.
Aged types are also widespread in the Italian sparkling wine world, with around ten denominations to refer to and three more in the process of being added. The most recent of these is Oltrepò in Lombardy, whose General Assembly of members has just approved the change of name to “Oltrepò Docg Metodo Classico”, adding the Riserva type to be precise (aged on its lees for at least 48 months).Law no. 238 of 12 December 2016 (Testo Unico della Vite e del Vino) specifies the legal definition of the traditional term “Riserva” in article 31, which states that it includes Docg wines aged for at least one year, and sparkling wines obtained by the method of fermentation in steel vats (Martinotti or Charmat method), as well as sparkling wines obtained by natural fermentation in the bottle ( traditional method).
